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MD Skincare talks about the challenges in pairing the right product with the right airless package.

The skin care market is filled with products claiming antiaging formulations and technologically advanced ingredients. These formulations need airless dispensing systems that maintain the stability of certain ingredients. The experts at MD Skincare shared some of the challenges they faced when packaging products in airless packages.

The Switch to Airless

The MD Skincare brand, founded by Manhattan-based dermatologist Dennis Gross, has used airless dispensing systems for a few products in the past. Recently, the company made the decision to choose airless packages more frequently in the future. This type of package is being used for new products that have been introduced under the brand name Hydra-Pure.

"We switched to using an airless dispensing system to keep our ingredients stable and to give our products a longer shelf life," says Stefani Thionnet-Maloney, executive vice president of MD Skincare. "When developing a new product, it's always important to know which antioxidants could benefit from having an airtight valve. In the serum category, it's probably most important," she explains.

Five out of seven products in the Hydra-Pure collection are in airless packages. The latest additions to the collection are Redness Soothing Serum and Radiance Renewal Serum, which both launched last fall.

Hydra-Pure products are based on MD Skincare's patent-pending Chelating Complex, an ingredient blend meant to remove the impurities found in tap water in order to help detoxify the skin. "The chelator removes the heavy metals found in tap water from the skin and also helps the skin to better absorb the beneficial trace minerals," says Thionnet-Maloney. Chelators weren't new when the brand began using them, but MD Skincare was the first company to use the ingredients in a skin care product for this unique benefit, according to Thionnet-Maloney. "Incorporating chelators in a product formulation allows the ingredients to penetrate faster and more efficiently, delivering immediate and long-term results."

Airless Packaging Protects Vitamin C

Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum launched last summer. Most beauty product manufacturers would agree that vitamin C is a tough ingredient to keep stable. "As soon as it is exposed to light and air, it loses its potency," says Thionnet-Maloney. She feels that a darkly colored bottle is not enough for a product containing this common ingredient. "There are thousands of products on the market now that contain vitamin C, but if they're not in an airtight package, the formulations won't be potent enough to provide any benefit to the skin," she explains.

MD Skincare wants its customers to better understand the benefits of an airtight package and spends a lot of time educating its sales teams. "Although consumers are savvier than ever when it comes to their knowledge of ingredients, we believe there are opportunities to further educate them on the benefits of proper packaging. We want them to further understand that the only way they will see the benefits of a product with vitamin C is if it is in an airtight package. Otherwise, they are wasting their money," explains Thionnet-Maloney. She is also relying heavily on word of mouth to get this message across. "We're hoping consumers will spread the news. The ‘tried and tested' marketing approach has been embedded in all of our minds," she adds.

Choosing the Right Airless Package

The type of airless dispensing system that MD Skincare has used over the years has changed quite a few times. The company has used the same airless package for the past two years, and the team is extremely happy with it.

"All airless packages are not the same. The technology has changed so much in the past five years. There are many more options available now, and we've been finding a huge difference in the quality of airtight components that are available," says Thionnet-Maloney.

One of the earlier challenges the brand faced was an air pocket inside the packaging that prohibited the product from being properly dispensed. The bottle had to be held at a certain angle and tapped to get the bubble out. "Because it is so important that the packaging be easy to use, we had to go back to the drawing board and explore more-effective options," says Thionnet-Maloney.

The team at MD Skincare performs a rigorous amount of compatibility testing to ensure that it delivers a quality package. "Chances are if you just choose a bottle you like based on looks, it won't work with your formula. We work diligently with our team to do extensive testing on every formula," says Thionnet-Maloney.

There are always a few obstacles that can't be prevented. "Sometimes a formula won't be able to dispense correctly through a pump because the final formula we get back from the lab turns out to be different from the lab batches we tested in the package. For this reason, we test product from every lab batch in the airless systems we are considering to ensure that they are compatible. This way we can make adjustments along the way and avoid surprises," says Thionnet-Maloney.